Lieutenant-Colonel Edward Lisle Strutt
“Bill” Strutt was chosen as Bruce’s deputy leader in 1922 for his extensive climbing experience. He was, however, a largely unpopular team member, often seen as pompous and pontificating.
Strutt was a multilingual Catholic aristocrat, educated at Oxford and Innsbruck universities, and also a much-decorated soldier, famed for escorting the family of Charles I, the last Austro-Hungarian Emperor, to safety in Switzerland in 1919. After Everest, Strutt became a formidable presence in the Alpine Club: From 1927 to 1937 he edited the Alpine Journal, and from 1935 to 1938 served as the club’s President. To the end, he had little time for “new-fangled” devices such as crampons.