THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY (WITH IBG)
Harold Raeburn
raeburn
(1865–1926)
Harold Raeburn, climbing leader of the 1921 reconnaissance, was chosen as an outstanding mountaineer who had made a reconnaissance of Kangchenjunga with Crawford in 1920. Elderly and generally unpopular, this dour Scotsman was forced by illness to relinquish his position during the 1921 expedition, but still managed to reach 22,000 feet (6700 m).
Raeburn’s impressive climbing career was built on numerous new routes up Ben Nevis, as well as extensive experience in the Alps and the Caucasus, where he achieved nine first ascents (1913–14). Raeburn never recovered his health after Everest, laboring at one stage under the delusion that he had murdered Kellas.
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