Cuthbert Wilfrid Frank Noyce
In 1953 Wilfrid Noyce was the first to reach the South Col, and made a second trip there later carrying a load.
He was educated at Charterhouse and Cambridge, where he was awarded a First in modern languages. During World War II he learnt enough Japanese as an intelligence officer to break an important Japanese code. Later, as chief instructor at a service mountain training center, he climbed Pauhunri.
He was a brilliant climber, with exceptionally good balance, as well as speed and stamina. After Everest, he went on to climb Trivor in 1960. By profession he was a teacher, but after 10 years at his old school he retired in order to concentrate on writing, both prose and poetry. He lost his life on Mount Garmo, in the Pamirs.