Lieutenant-General Edward Felix Norton
Edward Norton proved, arguably, the strongest member of the 1922 and 1924 expeditions, climbing without oxygen to nearly 27,000 feet (8230 m) in 1922 and then to 28,126 feet (8573 m) in 1924. This was an altitude record not exceeded until 1952 and a record for climbing without supplementary oxygen that stood till as late as 1978. In 1924 he had been made acting leader of the expedition following General Bruce's withdrawal due to ill health.
Educated at Charterhouse School, Norton spent a good deal of his 40-year military career in India, where he gained a reputation as a fearless horseman. Tall and imposing, Norton was also a renowned linguist and birdlover. As grandson of Sir Alfred Wills, who climbed the Wetterhorn in 1854, Norton learned his climbing skills at the "Eagle's Nest," the family chalet in the Haute Savoie. Norton served as Acting Governor of Hong Kong from 1940 until his retirement in 1942.