George Herbert Leigh Mallory
George Mallory, the only veteran of all three 1920s expeditions, on which he was universally considered to be the finest climber, vanished with Irvine en route to the summit of Everest on June 8, 1924.
Mallory began his climbing career on the roof of his father’s church in Cheshire and progressed to the Alps while at Winchester College. Handsome, athletic, and idealistic, he went on to read history at Magdalene College, Cambridge (1905–09), where he mixed with the emerging set of writers and artists who would later become the famous Bloomsbury Group. In 1910 Mallory became a teacher at Charterhouse School, while continuing to climb in the Alps and in Wales. In 1914 he married Ruth Turner, initiating a 10-year period of domesticity punctuated by long absences during World War I and the Everest expeditions. On May 1, 1999, Mallory’s frozen corpse was found at 26,800 feet (8170 m), 75 years after his disappearance.