THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY (WITH IBG)
Thomas George Longstaff
longstaff
(1875–1964)
Tom Longstaff was chief medical officer and naturalist on the 1922 Everest Expedition. He was also the team’s amiable non-climbing father figure, whose ascent of Trisul (23,385 feet/7128 m) in 1907 was a record altitude at the time.
Longstaff’s vast expedition and mountaineering experience, contained in 50 volumes of diaries, included 20 visits to the Alps, 6 to the Himalayas, and 5 to the Arctic. As an early proponent of lightweight alpine-style expeditions, his other notable Himalayan achievements included a bold attempt on Gurla Mandhata (25,350 feet/7726 m) in Tibet (1905) and the discovery of the Siachen Glacier (1909). Longstaff eventually retired to Scotland, where he indulged his love of fishing and birdwatching.
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