Sir John Laurence Longland
Jack Longland came to the 1933 expedition as a 28-year-old rock climber of unparaleled reputation. On Everest he helped establish Camp VI at 27,400 feet (8350 m) before leading a party of porters down to Camp V in severe conditions.
Longland established his rock-climbing credentials at Cambridge University and climbed extensively in the Alps, particularly with Wager, with whom he also visited Greenland in 1935. Longland lectured in English at Durham University from 1930 to 1936 and became an influential figure in education, local government, and mountaineering circles. He was also Question Master of the BBC radio quiz My Word (1956–76).