Dr. Alexander Mitchell Kellas
Alexander Kellas came to the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance with impeccable credentials as an explorer, photographer, and veteran Himalayan mountaineer: He first visited Sikkim in 1907, and in 1911 achieved first ascents of Pauhunri (23,375 feet/7126 m) and Chomiomo (22,404 feet/ 6830 m). Kellas was also an expert on altitude as a result of his laboratory work undertaken at Middlesex Hospital Medical School, where he lectured in chemistry, as well as forays over the mountains of Sikkim. Following a period of illness in 1919 and an expedition to Kamet with Morshead in 1920, this dogged Scotsman was already in poor health by the time of the 1921 reconnaissance. He died on the approach to Kampa Dzong, where he was buried within sight of Everest and the mountains he had first climbed.