Lieutentant-Colonel Charles Kenneth Howard Bury
In 1920, at Sir Francis Younghusband’s request, Howard Bury visited India and successfully paved the way for the first expedition to Everest the following year. As leader of the 1921 reconnaissance, but no great mountaineer, he reached 22,000 feet (6700 m).
He was educated at Eton and Sandhurst before joining the army in 1904. As a boy he climbed in the Austrian Tirol and, while on military leave, explored the Greater Ranges of the Indian subcontinent: Early forays included Tibet (1905), and Kashmir and the Karakoram (1909), where he indulged his passion for botany and game hunting. Howard Bury was also a wealthy landowner and member of parliament; he retired in 1931 to Ireland where he bred racehorses.