Major-General James Merricks Lewis Gavin
“Jim” Gavin was the only member of the 1936 expedition without previous Himalayan experience. Nevertheless, he made a creditable climb with Smythe to the North Col.
Gavin read mechanical sciences at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he was an active member of the University Mountaineering Club. His other interests included skiing and sailing. During a long army career with the Royal Engineers, Gavin specialized in sabotage during World War II.
His last posting was as Assistant Chief of Staff, Intelligence. After leaving the army, Gavin joined the British Standards Institution, where he helped plan the introduction of the metric system to the UK.