Sir Charles Evans
Robert Charles Evans was deputy leader in 1953, making the first ascent of the South Summit of Everest with Tom Bourdillon. He led the successful Kangchenjunga expedition in 1955, which put four climbers on the summit, and himself took a load to the top camp.
Evans was educated at Shrewsbury and Oxford. He climbed in the Alps in 1939, and again after the war, as well as extensively in Britain. As a young doctor, he served in the Burma campaign in World War II, and was mentioned in dispatches for bravery. Later, he became a neurosurgeon in Liverpool.
In 1950, he embarked on a decade of climbing and mountain exploration in the Himalayas. In 1958 he was appointed Principal of Bangor University in Wales, holding that post until retirement in 1984. Shortly after this appointment, he began to suffer from multiple sclerosis, which cut short his climbing career, although for some years he engaged in adventurous small-boat sailing.