Brigadier-General Charles Granville Bruce
Charlie Bruce (known as “Bruiser”), hard-drinking Himalayan veteran and larger-than-life leader of the 1922 expedition, was a fluent Nepali speaker who, both in 1922 and 1924, bridged perfectly the cultural divide between sahib and Sherpa. However, malaria forced him to relinquish his leadership of the 1924 expedition to Norton while he was still en route to the mountain.
Bruce served a swashbuckling career with the Gurkhas (1889–1920) and was severely wounded at Gallipoli in World War I. Bruce’s extensive mountaineering experience included climbing with Conway in the Karakoram (1892), with Mummery on Nanga Parbat (1895), and with Longstaff on Trisul (1907). From 1931 to 1936 he was Honorary Colonel of the 5th Royal Gurkha Rifles of the Indian Army. When Bruce was felled by a stroke in 1939, Raymond Greene was his doctor.