Thomas Duncan Bourdillon
Tom Bourdillon was largely responsible for developing the closed-circuit oxygen apparatus used by Charles Evans and himself on their pioneering climb to the South Summit in 1953. Before that, he had been with Shipton on the 1951 reconnaissance and on Cho Oyu in 1952. He was in charge of all oxygen equipment in both 1952 and 1953.
Educated at Oxford, he made his career as a physicist employed on rocket research. A quiet and modest man, he was an inspiring figure in the postwar renaissance of British climbing in the Alps, leading climbs of a standard not hitherto attempted by British climbers. He died while attempting a route on the Jagihorn, in the Bernese Oberland.