Dr. Charles Warren
Charles Warren joined the 1935, 1936, and 1938 expeditions as both a doctor and climber.
In this role, he contributed significantly to Pugh and Ward’s knowledge about altitude and the use of oxygen in 1953. Warren’s personal Sherpa on all three expeditions was the young Tenzing Norgay.
Warren read medicine at Cambridge, and during his time there climbed with Longland, Wager, and Lloyd. In 1933, by then a qualified doctor and experienced alpine climber, he joined his first expedition to the Garhwal Himalayas, where he climbed Bhagirathi III (21,175 feet/6454 m). After World War II, Warren specialized in pediatrics and continued his 60-year climbing career. Warren was also an expert on early English watercolors and Romantic literature.